I printed all my targets using a HP laserjet CP3505 printer.  I printed from Adobe Illustrator and set the printer for black only toner and pushed the density of black toner to the maximum setting using the menu panel interface at the printer.  The film processed nicely and I achieved a very black image.

 

I really prepared the plates as adhesion of resist has been a problem.  The mechanical scrubbing with 0000 steel wool was a new step for me.  I followed up with a degreaser cleaner and then brightened with salt/vinegar. I also used a fine file to eliminate any ridges on the plate edges created by the stamping process.  I also used an antistatic wipe on the plate as well as on the pnp blue toner side just before placing the resist on the plate.  I did this as I could see a small bump caused by a dust particle when positioning the film the first time.

 

I went to the discount store and bought an iron for $12.  I set the heat at polyester setting and turned off the steam (I never added any water.) I would love to get a surface thermometer and be more precise to achieve the 300 degree F setting. I just let the iron sit on the pnp blue / copper plate sandwich for about 2 minutes and then did some “ironing” and more sitting with hand pressure.  I stopped the process at 8 minutes.  I quinched the plate with tap water and the pnp blue film just slipped off with no problem leaving a very black, very consistent, very adhered image on the copper.  I even tested the bond by laying a strip of clear packing tape on the toner and peeled the aggressive tape off slowly.  There was no removal of the toner -  this stuff is stuck!  Surely, this resist will stand up to aggressive electro etching. =)

 

I can see, though, that this process would never work with plates that have any kind of surface distortion.  I can see where the puretch would be the perfect solution to plate warping.  I will try the new cleaning technique with the puretch to make sure I am not missing something.

 

Next step will be to etch...